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International Mt. Shishapangma 8,012m Expedition Spring 2011
MAXIMUM: 43 Days
ENTRY/ EXIT: Zhangmu
DEPARTURE: April 2011
Shishapangma is the 14th highest mountain on the planet. It is called Gosainthan in Nepali. It is located in central Himalaya and lies totally in Tibet. The route is straightforward climb and not technically demanding. It is the youngest mountain among 8000m peaks. Mt. Shishapangma 8012 m was first climbed by H. Ching and Nine Climbers in 1664. Mount Shishapangma expedition begins after your arrival in Kathmandu. Our team staff will welcome you at Kathmandu airport and transfer you to the Hotel. Next day we will have a meeting at our official expedition crews and discuss about the expedition and check required expedition equipments for safety purpose. We will have all expedition permits and required documents in our hand. We will just collect passport from all climbers and make Tibet visa on the same day. According to the expedition program team will drive to Zangmu via Aranico highway and Friendship Bridge. At the friendship bridge staff from Tibet Mountaineering Association will be waiting for our expedition group. Expedition team members will drive on 4WD land cruiser and expedition equipments will be carried by truck. After driving 3 days (1 night in Zangmu and 2 Nights in Nylam) we will reach Mount Shishapangma Base camp. Chinese call it Chinese Base Camp. Shishapangma base camp is situated at altitude of 4600 m. We will set camp here for 2 days to acclimatize and check expedition equipments once more. After, we will walk for long day to reach Shishapangma advance base camp. It is situated at altitude of (5400 m).
Short note about climbing route:
Camp 1 – 6,730m – After 6-7 hours walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed. Camp 2 – 7,045m – After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the northwest ridge. Camp 3 – 7,400m – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers’ progress and the condition of the physical fitness; and also the favorable condition of the weather depends the climbing ahead.
Climbing Sherpa guide for Himalayan:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for your expeditions. They are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day’s climbing.
Note:
If you have your private group 10-15, please e-mail us to know the price and detail of expedition.
If you are 01-04 and looking for a group to join, visit our fix-departure expedition information.
International Mt. Shishapangma Expedition 8,012m Itinerary
Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu airport and transfer to hotel
We meet you at the airport; look for a sign with your name on it. Our official crew will meet you in Kathmandu and introduce the crew.
Day 2-3 Rest days at Kathmandu
Two free days in Kathmandu for relaxing, packing and preparing. You can leave any gear which you don’t need during the expedition at the hotel. We keep your international air ticket at the office in case any changes need to be made while you are climbing. We can arrange a sightseeing tour, if you wish.
Day 4 Drive from Kathmandu via Kodari to Zhangmu (2300m) / Nyalam Hotel F/B
We leave Kathmandu early in the morning to cover the123km to reach the Nepal-Tibet Border. After completing the immigration formalities at the border, we drive towards Nyalam. Moving up a series of incredibly steep switchbacks, which passes through a mossy gully with cascading waterfalls, we reach Nyalam.
Day 5 Drive from Zhangmu to Nyalam (3780m), Guest House
Moving up a series of incredibly steep switchbacks, which passes through a mossy gully with cascading waterfalls, we reach Nyalam.
Day 6 Rest day at Nyalam for Acclimatization
It would be wise to spend a day resting and acclimatizing in Nyalam before heading up higher. A short way out of town there is a small temple, Nyalam Pelgye Ling, which is associated with the eleventh and twelfth century poet-lama Milarepa.
Day 7 Drive from Nyalam to Tingri (4340m)
We proceed towards ‘Chinese’ base camp. The views of Shishapangma are wonderful from this grassy camp near a stream.
Day 8 Rest day at Tingri for acclimatization)
Day 9 Drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp (4800m
From Tingri we move to Chinese Base camp
Day 10 Drive from Chinese Base Camp to Base camp 5000m
Day 11 Rest day at Base Camp
Day 12 Base Camp to Advance Base Camp (5600m)
We arrive at Advance Base Camp. We hold a puja, a ceremony to show respect for the mountain. The puja is held on an auspicious day decided by the Sherpa.
Days 13-38 (26 days) Climbing period of Shishapangma (8,012m)
The expedition leader in discussion with the team members and Sherpa manages the day to day running of the expedition. The Sherpa carry the majority of the equipment to establish the camps leaving us to familiarize ourselves with the mountain and get more acclimatized, a long process. There are several different methods to ready for yourself for the summit bid, we will discuss them in detail on the mountain. The basic plan is to spend 3-4 days at ABC then take a 6-7 day trip up on the mountain sleeping as high as Camp 2, 7100m. Logistically, it takes some sound preparation and organization to ensure all the camps are set up with the appropriate supplies. Then we need a window of good weather for the summit attempt and often this is a waiting game. From Camp 3, 7500m, we have a spectacular view that stretches way into the distance to the north and also we can see Everest and Cho Oyu.
Summit route options:
Summit day means a very early start. The best route to the true summit is crossing the face (in green above, and the picture to the right) but we judge at the time whether this is safe. The route in yellow goes first to the Central summit, which we must fix ropes to. From there to the true summit is a knife-edged ridge that is rarely in condition for traversing, although it is only nasty for less than a rope length. The other possibility is a new route (in blue): from Camp 3 we descend a little onto a broad plateau and will probably have to put a camp there. The slopes from there on are moderate although there are a few crevasses. Once we have summitted we clear the mountain of our gear and rubbish and head out. We are likely to summit prior to day 39 but have plenty of time to wait out for the best conditions.
Day 39 Drive from Base Camp to Tingri hotel
Day 40 Drive from Tingri to Zhangmu, hotel F/B
We drive from the Base Camp to Zhangmu.
Day 41 Drive from to Kathmandu, transfer to hotel B/B
We should arrive in Kathmandu late afternoon or evening ready to enjoy the good restaurants.
Day 42 Rest day at Kathmandu
At leisure
Day 43 Departure to your destination
Our driver and airport representative will drive you to the airport in time for your flight back home. We ensure you that you will leave Kathmandu with cherishing memories and an experience of a lifetime.
Cost for Shishapangma Advance base camp serviceonly:
04 Pax: US$ 6,250 (04 climbers) per person
Extra: Cost for Climbing Sherpa per person US$ 3,800
Note: – For a one climbing permit, maximum 15 person will be allowed in a group.
Cost includes for shishapangma base camp service only:
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Accommodation in Kathmandu at 3 star hotel for 5 nights(BB plan)
- Tibet visa fee
- Permit fee of Mt.Shishapangma
- Road permit and travel permit
- Service of Liaison officer and interpreter
- Transportation as per program/itinerary
- Accommodation in Tibet on full board basis (breakfast, lunch & dinner)
- Nepalese Sherpa cook and kitchen boy at BC and ABC
- Entry fee of Kitchen staffs
- Equipment allowances and daily salary of kitchen staffs, Liaison officer and interpreter
- Insurance of kitchen staffs, Liaison officer and interpreter
- Food and fuel at base camp and advance base camp
- Kitchen tent, dining tent, store tent, shower tent, toilet tents, chair, table at BC and ABC
- Single sleeping tent and mattress at BC and ABC
- Transfer of all expedition goods and equipment’s to BC and back
- 2 expedition duffel bag for each member
- Solar panel at Advance Base Camp for light and charging
- Satellite phone on base camp on payable basis (US$ 5 per minuet)
- Emergency Oxygen at advance base camp (for medical use)
- Garbage deposit fee
Cost for Shishapangma expedition service upto SUMMIT:
04 Pax: US$ 12,500 (04 climbers) per person
Cost includes for shishapangma expedition fullboard service upto summit:
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Accommodation in Kathmandu at 3 star hotel for 5 nights(BB plan)
- Tibet visa fee
- Permit fee of Mt.Shishapangma
- Road permit and travel permit
- Service of Liaison officer and interpreter
- Transportation as per program/itinerary
- Accommodation in Tibet on full board basis (breakfast, lunch & dinner)
- 1 climbing Sherpa per climbing member
- 2 oxygen bottles per member with mask and regulator for expedition use ( Poisk Oxygen Syatem)
- 1 oxygen for the climbing Sherpa
- All common climbing equipments such as fixed ropes, main ropes, snow bars, ice screws, pitons etc
- High altitude tents
- High altitude food and fuel
- Nepalese Sherpa cook and kitchen boy at BC and ABC
- Entry fee of Kitchen staffs
- Equipment allowances and daily salary of Climbing Sherpa, kitchen staffs, Liaison officer and interpreter
- Insurance of Climbing Sherpa, kitchen staffs, Liaison officer and interpreter
- Food and fuel at base camp and advance base camp
- Kitchen tent, dining tent, store tent, shower tent, toilet tents, chair, table at BC and ABC
- Single sleeping tent and mattress at BC and ABC
- Transfer of all expedition goods and equipment’s to BC and back
- 2 expedition duffel bag for each member
- Solar panel at Advance Base Camp for light and charging
- Satellite phone on base camp on payable basis (US$ 5 per minuet)
- Emergency Oxygen at advance base camp (for medical use)
- Garbage deposit fee
Cost excludes mention above the program
- International airfare from / to your country
- Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
- Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp
- Tents above base camp
- High altitude food and fuel above base camp
- Oxygen & Mask and regulator (available on request)
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage
- Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, communication equipment and commercial filming
- International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
- Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
- Tips and bonuses for climbing Sherpa and base camp staff
Emergency Helicopter RESCUE: If any of a climber is in bad condition or gets high altitude sickness then there is a possibility of rescue from Jeep. For this service, a climber has to do travel insurance in their home country because we didn’t do any kinds of insurance for climber.
Good advice
Climbing any 7000m and 8000m above is a dangerous pastime. No one can guarantee your safety at 7000m and much less at 8000m and over. So in our price we include personal high altitude Sherpa-guides for the summit attempt. According to our long Mt. Everest, Mt. Cho-Oyu, Mt. Shishapangma, Mt. Dhaulagiri and Mt. Manaslu experience it is a must, especially if you have no previous experience in climbing above 8000m. A Sherpa-guide will enormously enhance your safety and chances of successful summiting. He will carry the supply of your oxygen to the top (and help you down if need be). The only drawback is he will cost quite a sum. But certainly you will get a very good value for your money – at the bad concourse of circumstance it might be your life’s value.
Booking procedure
If your decision to take part in our expedition if firm pleases send us e-mail with:
Confirmation (in a form you prefer)
First name(s)
Family name
Present mailing address
Phone number
Date of birth
Citizenship
Passport number, its date of issue and expiration
Jacket size (M, L, XL) – for Team Jacket
Your digital photo
Payment procedure
- Non-refundable deposit of US$ 3000 must be wired to our bank account
- Second non-refundable payment:
4000 US$ + deposit of 1000 US$ for each extra service (375 USD for each extra oxygen-cylinder). Must be maid prior to January 17th 2011
- Balance payment for the whole program and all the extra services and products must be made prior to February 04th 2011
NOTE:
- IF APPLICANT FAILS TO MAKE THE ABOVEMENTIONED PAYMENTS IN DUE TIME, HIS/HER APPLICATION IS CANCELLED AND ALL PREVIOUS PAYMENTS ARE NON-REFUNDABLE.
- ALL YOUR PAYMENTS FOR ANY SERVICE AND EQUIPMENT ARE NON-REFUNDABLE AFTER THE FIRST OF FEBRUARY.
- NO REFUND WILL BE GIVEN IF A MEMBER LEAVES A TRIP FOR ANY REASON EITHER VOLUNTARILY OR INVOLUNTARILY. NO REFUND WILL BE GIVEN FOR ANY SERVICE OR PRODUCT NOT USED DURING EXPEDITION. THIS INCLUDES (BUT NOT LIMITED TO) OXYGEN.
Necessary travel papers (documents)
Permit for visiting Tibet (a group one)
Climbing permit for Shishapangma
Four passport photos – for visas
By air and by land
Transfer from Kathmandu to BC
Meeting and seeing-off
City transfers in Kathmandu
Airfare Kathmandu – Lhasa
Bus and truck for the loads to Zangmu and back to Katmandu
One jeep (or minibus) for 4 members and a truck for luggage and staff from Zangmu to the Base Camp and back
Carrying loads above BC: yaks carry loads from BC to ABC and back. One yak (40 kg) per member from BC to ABC. Yaks carry your personal equipment.
High altitude Sherpas carries all expedition equipment above ABC. They pitch and strike high camps and bring up and down all the camping (including sleeping bags with foam pads), climbing gear, food and oxygen. The latter is brought to three camps: at 7000m (one 4-liters “Poisk” bottle per member), 7700m (one 4-liters “Poisk” bottle per member) and 8300m (three 4-liters “Poisk” bottles per member).
Accommodation
The Malla Hotel 5***** in Katmandu for 5 nights in double rooms (3 nights before and 2 nights after expedition)
All hotels in Tibet: in Zangmu, Nialam, Tingri (rooms for 2-6)
In BC and ABC – 1 tent for 1 member
High camps – 1 tent for 3 members
Meals
Breakfasts only in Katmandu (lunches and dinners are not included)
Meals in Tibet on the way to BC – 3 times a day in restaurants
Meals in the BC, IBC, ABC and the NCC– 3 times a day, prepared by Nepalese cooks with the help of Tibetan kitchen-boys on gas stoves in kitchen tents. In these camps you can get any amount of hot water for washing and boiled water for drinking. We eat in spacious mess tents equipped with tables and chairs.
Food for the ascent – we provide special light-weight dehydrated food-stuffs made by western companies and in the camp higher the NC you make your meals yourselves on gas stoves. The cooking is simple, just add boiled water and wait a bit. Water is melted snow.
Staff
Expedition leader from “our office” – experienced Shishapangma summiter
Chinese liaison officer
Nepalese cooks: one for BC and one for ABC
Tibetan kitchen boys: one for BC and one for ABC
High-altitude porters (Sherpas), all with Shishapangma experience: one for a member. They go with the team all the way form ABC to the summit
Guides – one for 5 members
Doctor in BC
Health and medical insurance
There will be a doctor in BC. We provide a big expedition first aid kit with all the necessary first aid (only!) medicines, and we strongly recommend that you bring your own specific ones you think you might need.
Medical insurance is a must!
Weather
Weather on Shishapangma is very changeable. Every day we will look for forecasts in Internet and adjust to them our planning of acclimatization and ascent.
Extra expenses
Single accommodation in Kathmandu (5 nights) – 450 US$
Extra nights in the “Malla Hotel”5***** hotel in Kathmandu in double rooms
Extra mask and regulator (1 set) – 700 USD
Extra oxygen 4 liters cylinder – 600 USD
Delivery of extra cylinders to high camps – 150 USD for one
Extra porters for personal equipment (25 kg maximum) from Base Camp to High Camp or from High Camp to Base Camp – 150 USD
Tips for BC and High Camp staff – about 200 USD from member
Price of your personal Sherpa, who carries your personal stuff from BC to high-altitude camps and goes with you from BC to high camps all the way from BC to the summit, is 3000 USD (includes oxygen, food, personal gear etc.)
Internet, phone
Electricity:
In BC and in High Camp we organize 220V with the help of generator and 12V with Solar batteries.
Each member will have a possibility to charge any electronic device
In Camps 5800m and 7000m – 12 V with Solar batteries
Walkie-Talkie:
On the route we use radios with 144.00 frequencies. All guides and Sherpas will have Walkie-Talkie.
Telephone:
There is GSM in Manaslu BC (mobile coverage at 1800 frequency)
“Thuraya” satellite phone works fine evrywhere on the route.
Internet:
We will arrange 2 computers in BC with GPRS for common use, but….
GPRS internet is pretty low. And everyone needs to work.
So we advise:
As long as we will have GPRS coverage your personal Communicators (palms) and Laptops will work fine
To do this you have to buy UNIVERSAL GPRS modem (modem which is not connected with any particular mobile operator).
Usually these modems have automatic setting for computers.
Personal gear
On 7000m abov climbers use 2 Base Camps – Base Camp (5100m) and High Camp (6500m). Hence it is advisable to have 2 sets of Base Camp equipment for Manaslu (e.g. – 2 sleeping bags so that you don’t have to carry your sleeping bag up and down).
The price includes some personal equipment:
Oxygen Set – 1mask + 1 redu Base Came to High Came + 1 oxygen cylinders “Poisk” 4L,
Personal Equipment for BC and ABC:
Duffle bag
Sleeping bag -2 items
Foam pad
Gas lamp
Gas stove
Gas cylinders – 4-5 items
Personal items for washing
Your favorite games Notebook (if necessary)
Personal Technical Equipment for the ascent:
Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12)
Rucksack 70-80 liters
Rucksack 35-40 liters
Harness
Prussiks
Karabiners with screwgate lockers – 3 items
Jumar (ascender)
Telescope ski poles
Thermos
Rappel device
Ice Axe
Head lamp
Photo camera
Video camera and assessors
Accumulators
Personal crockery for high camps
Personal Equipment for body and feet:
Trekking shoes
Boots of “Manaslu” Millet type
Down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls)
Gore-tex jacket with wide hood
Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls)
Windblock jacket
Windblock trousers
Jacket “Polartec – 100″ – 2 items
Warm underwear – 2 sets
Personal underwear
Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
Thinsulate gloves
Thinsulate mittens – 2 pairs
Warm woolen socks – 4-5 pairs
Balaclava
Warm hat
Windblock face mask
UV glasses
Ski goggles (preferably)
Gaiters
The price includes some personal equipment:
- Oxygen equipment (1mask + 1 reducer + 1 Oxygen cylinders “Poisk” 4L)
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